Pool Madness

Get a Grip

2007-01-31T13:29:00.000-08:00

A good grip is an important aspect in the game of billiard. A proper grip allows you to make accurate shots. On the other hand, a bad grip will limit your potential for improvement. Take a look at the illustrations on the side, as you can see your grip must be loose and relaxed.

Never tighten your grip, keep it relaxed all the way through your stroke.

Try to use two to three fingers to hold your cue stick while using the thumb as support to keep your cue stick from falling off. The image on the side shows you that your wrist and your lower arm must be in a straight line or 180 degrees. Your wrist must point downward and NOT inward (greater than 180 degrees) or outward (less than 180 degrees). The reason for this is that if your wrist is pointing inward or outward, it will most likely move sideways as you do your final stroke.

The next thing to learn is which part of the cue stick you will need to put your gripping hand. Should you put it on the very end of the butt of the cue stick or should you put it closer to your body? It is different for everybody but one guideline for figuring this out is to locate the balance point.

See the illustration below. To do this, use your index finger to balance the cue stick on its own. Once it is balanced, remember the point on the cue stick where it balanced and use this as your reference point. Depending on how tall you are you will need to place your gripping hand at least 6 inches from the balance point towards the end of the cue stick. Shorter players will put their gripping hand closer to the reference point while taller players will put their gripping hand farther away from the reference point.

Billiard Game Stance

2007-01-30T11:50:00.000-08:00

Different types of players will have different stance. Your stance may not exactly be the same as mine but there are a few guidelines to keep in mind.

Balance is important simply because a good stroke requires minimal body movement except for your arm to swing the cue stick. You need to find the proper balance so that every other part of your body is kept still. Spread your feet apart to distribute your weight evenly on both feet. Move your left foot forward if you are right handed or your right foot if you are left handed.

Your arm should be perpendicular to the table, i.e. 90 degree angle (see illustration). It should remain at 90 degrees as you swing your cue stick. There should be no sideways movement of your arm. This ensures a straight stroke.

Next, make room for your arm to swing freely. In order to do this you must angle your body at least 30 degrees from your cue stick. Make sure that your arm doesn't hit your hip when you swing back. Let yourself be comfortable with the position. And last, you must set your cue stick as level as possible by lowering your upper body to a point where your cue stick becomes as level as possible. Depending on how tall you are, you may have to lower your body even more to accomplish this.

Buying a pool table for an apartment

2006-06-28T07:58:00.000-07:00

Buying a billiards table for the home is not the same as buying new living room furniture despite the fact 2 chairs and a couch will probably cost as much as a new eight-foot table, particularly if you live in a two-bedroom apartment.

At the time, I was nudging Senior Citizen-Hood and my wife was coming along. We both jumped into billiards like we were in our mid-twenties.

Playing a couple of evenings a week at the local Boston Billiards was turning into a budget item.

The idea of a pool table loan for half what we were spending monthly made sense.

I started researching on the web and it soon became clear it wouldn't go into the spare bedroom (five feet clearance all the way around).

We didn't have a basement. That meant relegating the two chairs and couch to one end of the room and corner and the table got center stage.

Actual table selection wasn't that big a deal. There are two stores in the city and we were more concerned about selection and service, prices were about equal.

We purchased the Brunswick the day before Thanksgiving in 2000 for delivery in mid-December.

In anticipation of table delivery day we tugged and shoved the furniture into its new positions and cleared a space roughly 30 X 16 (well relatively clear, a couple of spots the cue will nudge the wall).

But we were ready for T-D-Day. Took my last vacation day to watch the table get assembled in the living room.

It’s an interesting process if you've never seen it.

The table-in-the-living room worked for a while (with the cover in place, it's a great place to fold laundry).

But after the first year, my wife began yearning for a sitting room without an 8-foot flat top as the centerpiece.

One good thing about a billiard table, it pretty much takes over its domain. Once it is set up, there isn't an easy way to move it.

That's the day we lost the spare room. Out went the bed, out came my computer desk and related paraphernalia. Out went the old couch and one of the chairs.

In came two new chairs, a new love seat and a new coat of paint. With a little ingenuity, my wife put the TV inside the closet so it's in the new sitting room.

When visitors called, it could go behind closed doors. When my wife gets on a roll, she can literally transform a drab living space; almost overnight into a resort hotel's Presidential Suite.

I know, it took place in this apartment I can easily call home. Who says billiards won't change your life?

Insane Pool Table Tricks!

2006-05-25T10:23:00.000-07:00

While surfin through the net, I found this crazy video of some dude doing insane billiard tricks... you have to see it for yourself...

Video: Insane Pool Table Tricks

Pool Table Lights Guide: How To Light Up Your Game

2006-05-19T14:55:00.000-07:00

The proper pool table lights is critical to playing your best game of pool. The ideal pool table light fixture is attractive, unobtrusive, and provides just enough illumination without creating a glare. Choosing the right pool table lights for your home need not be difficult. Just keep a few points in mind.

The Best Pool Table Lights for the Job

The most effective pool table lights cover the entire length of the table. Measure your pool table before you start shopping. The majority of pool table lights fixtures available have multiple globes in order to direct several points of light at the table, usually two, three, or four globes. Multiple globes on your pool table lights fixture also help to eliminate any glare. Some fixtures contain multiple globes within one larger fixture.

Traditional vs. Contemporary Pool Table Lights

Pool table lights come in a wide variety of styles and finishes. Traditional, Victorian, Tiffany-style lights are popular pool table lights. These fixtures, modeled after designs by the famous glass artist, Louis Comfort Tiffany, are made of small panes of glass joined with lead piping. These colorful glass pieces are put together to form all manner of designs, logos, and slogans.

Tiffany-style pool table lights are available in one long shade with several bulbs inside the globe or in multiple shades along a single, metal bar. They may be elaborate, multi-color showpieces or relatively simple, one-color pool table lights fixtures.

Other traditional fixtures of pool table lights come in black or brown wrought-iron fixture with alabaster glass shades. Most often the pool table lights fixture is crafted into a scrolled design with multiple glass shades. This style of light fixture is also widely available in bronze, brushed pewter, and brass finishes. pool table lights made from ooden fixtures, too, can lend a warm and homey touch to your poolroom.

Contemporary pool table lights can give your room a clean, sleek, modern look. Bar pool table lights in chrome and brass with simple, smoked glass shades can create such a look. Some pool table light fixtures insert a vibrant touch by adding green, red, and blue colored glass shades.

Something a Little Different

Customize your pool table lights by adding a college or professional sports logo. Tiffany-style lights often incorporate the logo into the glass motif whereas solid glass shades can be etched with your favorite team’s logo. Cheer on the “Fighting Irish” of Notre Dame, the Colorado “Avalanche” Hockey team, or the New England “Patriots” right from your recreation room.

Military logos are also popular designs for pool table lights. The Marine Corps, Navy, Army, and Air Force insignia are all available, both in Tiffany lights and in solid etched glass shades. Also consider “Jack Daniels” logo pool table lights or perhaps one with the “Harley Davidson” logo.

The Technical Stuff

Installing your pool table lights should be relatively easy for the weekend home remodeler. There must be a secure place onto which to mount your pool table light fixture and that it has its own separate electrical box. As with any electrical project, turn off the electrical current before you start working on mounting your pool table lights.

The correct light bulbs go a long way to ensuring your pool table lights fixture is safe as well as creating the right mood. 60-watt bulbs are recommended although some of the pool table lights with multiple shades might look better with 40-watt bulbs instead.

Where to Shop

The Internet has made shopping for pool table lights much easier. A typical search yields hundreds of online retailers of pool table lights. Browse through thousands of pool table lights, right in the privacy of your home. Many Web merchants even offer free shipping and live online customer service. Expect to pay from $150 for simple bar pool table lights to over $1000 for an elaborate Tiffany-style light fixture.

The right pool table lights can give your poolroom that ambiance of casual elegance or rustic charm that you desire as well as providing the lighting necessary to play your best game of pool. Shop carefully; consider all your options, and you’ll enjoy your pool table lights fixture for many years to come.

by: Richard Aubin

The Advantage of Using Pool Table Covers

2006-05-17T14:02:00.000-07:00

As anyone who owns a pool or billiards table can tell you, the decorative game table is usually considered a prized possession, as well as the focus of the room in which it is kept. Maintaining the beauty and functionality of the pool table means keeping it free of spills, stains and damage. The ongoing quality of your pool table can be significantly increased through the use of pool table covers . Available in a wide range of styles, materials and prices, pool table covers are a wise investment for any serious pool table owner.

Types of Pool Table Covers

Pool table covers are sold in a variety of materials and styles. Regardless of your room decoration or budgetary concerns, finding a pool table cover to fit your needs is a simple process. All you need to know is the dimensions of your pool table and you're all set. Standard pool table covers come in sizes ranging from 7ft to 9ft, but customized, fitted covers are also an option to consider. While many covers come in the traditional green of pool felt, more expressive colors and patterned pool table covers are the latest trend. To begin your search, you should decide which cover material best suits your décor, your personal style and your budget. Typical cover materials include:

* Basic vinyl – As the most cost-effective solution, basic vinyl table protectors are available in multiple color options. Providing protection for the delicate fabric of the table surface from drink spills, leaking water and pet hair, vinyl pool table covers main feature is functionality.

* Heavy vinyl – If you typically have frequent guests and provide entertainment in the room where your pool table is located, you might want to consider a heavier vinyl cover for added durability.

* Cloth – While cloth pool table covers don't offer as much protection as vinyl, they do provide a more aesthetic presentation. Typical fabrics include crushed velvet, suede and satin type material that add a luxurious element to your game room. Cloth table covers are available in many different colors to suit your palette and can also feature pool-themed patterns.

* Leather/Leatherette – Top-of-the-line pool table covers are those fashioned from leather and leatherette materials. Featuring both durability and good looks, leather style pool table covers add elegance to any room.

Customized Pool Table Covers and Other Options

Aside from the vast array of standard pool table covers , you also have the option of having a customized pool table cover created to fit your table. You can select the material, the color and the proportions and the cover will be created to exact specifications. The fitted corners of a custom pool table cover provide additional protection for the wood, as well as decreasing the chances of the cover slipping off. Your pool table is an investment, don't let careless treatment ruin the beauty and use you can get out it for years to come.

About the Author:
Paolo Basauri is a respected author of articles about decoration and style.

Pool Cue Power: What Is It And What Can It Do For You?

2006-05-16T13:47:00.000-07:00

Over the years there has been much conjecture over the importance of cue power for breaking balls or applying english, etc.. Some players have thought that a heavy cue would make them break better. Thank goodness, most players have finally been educated to the reality that a lighter cue is more powerful. A fact that has been repeatedly proven by the Meucci Staff and other players in breaking contests over the years - ever since I first introduced the use of a radar gun at tournaments in the early 90's. The simple fact is that a human, male or female, has limited strength and can only move a certain amount of weight so fast; the heavier the weight, the slower the swing. Conversely, the lighter the weight, the faster the swing.

It is the speed of the cue, not its mass (weight), that causes the acceleration of the cue ball because of the cue's compression at the moment of impact as it first tries to overcome the inertia to remain at rest.

The optimum cue weight to accomplish maximum speed and compression before the cue snaps back and sends the cue ball forward is about 18 to 18 3/4 oz. for most men and about 17 to 17 3/4 oz. for most women.

What do I mean when I say compression? I mean that at the moment of impact, with sufficient speed, before the cue ball moves, the first thing that happens is the shaft bends away from it's spine creating an "S" shaped wave that travels through the cue as the cue is fore-shortened by it's compression, thus loading energy into the cue.

As the inertia to remain at rest is overcome, the cue ball is projected forward by the power of the player's arm and swing speed plus an additional kick from the pre-loaded cue, thus equaling cue power.

The more we can compress the shaft from the moment in which the cue ball is impacted until it leaves the tip, the more power you will develop.

You've seen the same kind of dynamics in the sport of pole vaulting, tennis and others. It is also applied in golf. Before the extra-whippy fiberglass pole was introduced in pole vaulting, when athletes just used a stiff wooden pole, the world record was just slightly over 15 feet high. Within one year of the introduction of the fiberglass pole, the world record was increased a whopping 20% to 18+ feet. The rest is history.

So then, the question is... how much compression/flexibility should a cue have? If you were to take a solid steel bar with no compression and put a tip on it, you would have a hard time striking the ball with enough force to bank 3 rails. I know this without question, I tested it myself.

On the other hand, when does a cue get so flexible that it over-compresses and does not return to shape until the cue ball is long gone, therefore losing power? With the use of the Myth Destroyer, our new testing robot, we have found that optimum point of compression and we now build it into every Meucci "RED DOT" shaft with 10% additional stiffness to allow for dimensional reduction through years of play. End Result: The most powerful cue in the world with the absolute least amount of effective cue ball deflection!

However, this important feat can not be accomplished by only considering the technology of shaft taper and flexibility. You must also consider joint material, joint style (flat face or piloted), joint size, forearm taper, shallow inlays (as opposed to true spliced points) and solid or 2-piece butts. All these factors must be optimized to obtain maximum cue power.

Now then, how do you use this power?

First, when breaking the balls, increased power equals increased forward motion velocity.

Secondly, when striking the cue ball off-center, there is a combination of forward motion and english velocity (speed of side spin). Therefore, you will be able to reach the cue ball position desired when playing 9 ball, 8 ball, or other demanding pool games without having to over-stroke the ball and thus lose accuracy.

Some have said that too much power or spin equals less control. This of course would be true for an amateur or weaker player to some degree, but, if they use a low-power cue, they surely will not have the power when they need it for that 3-rail draw or follow shot.

The mistake they make is not understanding the technology of "percentage-of-tip" position-play.
All truly great players break up a draw or follow shot into as many as 12 different tip positions in each area; above, below and left or right of center. They generally strike the cue ball about the same speed whenever possible and let tip position complete the job. If you master this same technique, it will enhance your game tremendously.

Remember, if your cue has limited power... so will you. So, get rid of that heavy cue - lighten up - and play better!

- Bob Meucci (http://www.meuccicues.com/)

Pool Cue Tip - How to Select a Cue Stick

2006-03-08T07:01:00.000-08:00

It seems pool players are obsessed with the notion that, if they just had the right stick, they would shoot better. I certainly believe it, because I can not bring myself to accepting responsibility for my failure. I want to blame the cue stick every time I miss. So I search. I am looking for the perfect stick. I want a stick that knows what I want to do, and does it automatically. I want a stick that compensates for my stupidity and anxiety. I want a stick that I can take two of when I have a bad cold, or eat when I'm hungry. I want a stick I can have sex with; one that moans and tells me how good it was. I want a stick that lies to me. I have shot with sticks that range in price from $10.00 to $1,000.00. I win and lose a lot of tournaments, on big and small tables, in dingy bars and in high class billiard parlors. I am obsessed with the game, and I want to stay obsessed with it. I have invested more time on a pool table with a stick in my hand than most people have invested in their careers. I am not on the professional tour, because I am not good enough, and never will be, but not because of a stupid stick! Many of the tournaments were won with cheap, sticky house sticks. Once I am in stroke, I forget about the stick and focus on the balls. The balls don't seem to care, as long as I am in charge and not distracted. I do select a stick with good leather. Bad leather will distract me. A bad stick will not, once I have adjusted to it. (Within reason.) I will stand by my conviction that a stick is dead weight behind a piece of leather. There are, of course, extenuating factors, chief among them being shaft flex. But that consideration can be controlled, and even used by advanced shooters. SQUIRT The flexibility of a shaft matters, and becomes a serious factor when using english. The illustration at left should demonstrate the reason. (I have significantly exaggerated the bend in the shaft of the stick to help in visualizing the dynamics.) Notice that the intended path of the cue ball (a) is straight ahead, with right spin. Upon impact the stick bends (b) away from the ball. Of course, the stick wants to "snap back" straight again, which forces the cue ball to "squirt" left, opposite the direction of shaft flex. Using too much left english will cause the cue ball to squirt right. The amount of squirt is not noticeable to the eye, but is a serious threat to aiming. All shafts bend. It is a question of how much. An advanced player can use squirt by compensating for it when aiming. The squirt phenomenon happens to a lesser of greater degree, depending on the amount of flex (whip) in the cue shaft. Unfortunately, the much desired pro taper, which decreases the circumference of the shaft further up the shaft, increases the probability of squirt resulting from shaft flex. Since force also affects shaft flex, and weight is a factor in force, heavier sticks may exacerbate the problem. Again, the shooter can adjust to all of the above. HIT In my opinion, Robert Byrne is the most knowledgeable instructor in the game today, and he knows how to explain things in terms anyone can understand. I believe Robert Byrne coined the term "squirt". I don't know where the term "hit" came from, or even exactly what it means. I guess it refers to the instant that the tip comes into contact with the cue ball. I don't like the term, because it sounds violent, but I can't think of a better term. I hear and read a lot of debate regarding the stick's "hit". I have trouble with this. The player is responsible for the hit, not the stick. Even considering flex, weight, and other cue characteristics, the hit is controllable. Different controls may be required for different sticks, but it is the leather tip that contacts the cue ball, and where the leather meets the ball is controlled by the shooter. A flexible shaft may require a fuller hit to avoid squirt, for example. But one can not blame a stick with good leather for a bad hit. If the shooter puts too much spin on the ball, fails to chalk up, shoots too hard or soft, punches the shot, fails to follow through (ad infinitum) a bad hit can result. It isn't fair to compare the hit of two sticks, with different shaft characteristics or leather, by using the same contact point on the cue ball. Obviously the hit will be different. Every new stick requires that the shooter make adjustments. But changing sticks in the belief that the adjustments should not be necessary can get expensive, especially when our shooting techniques mature and evolve by nature. If you want a better hit, make adjustments, and hit it better. More shots are missed as the result of squirt than because of aim. Put a little less spin on the ball and watch your shot making percentage improve. Stop blaming the stick! An experienced player can tell by the stick's vibration whether or not the stick flexes too much. The sound of the "hit" is important too, but the leather is mostly responsible for the sound. I like to feel my hand on bare wood, so I will not shoot with a glove. Although it is a minor consideration, I can feel the vibrations of the stick better with a cue that does not have wrap on the butt. Unless the player has enough shooting experience with a variety of sticks, sound and vibration will not mean too much in stick selection. STICK SELECTION The way a stick feels is important. All players want a stick that feels right in terms of weight, balance, shaft characteristics and leather. If it takes a few more bucks to find one that feels good, by all means make the investment. But if it takes thousands of dollars to find a stick that feels good, there is a serious problem. Yes, the finish on a stick is important. But, keep in mind that the same materials that go into an expensive custom cue can be found in moderately priced models. Rock Maple is Rock Maple. The grain is important, and the makers of higher priced sticks are usually more selective. But not necessarily. Cue makers are in business to make money; an honorable pursuit that often corrupts. BEGINNER Don't spend a lot of money on something you don't know how to use skillfully. Select an inexpensive stick, with the help of a more experienced friend. Examine the stick carefully for flaws, including finish, straightness, butt wrap and inlays. I would not suggest the purchase of a $19.00 K-Mart stick, although a pro player can kick butt with one. (I saw Jim Rempe beat some fine players, and he was using a mop handle.) Investments by beginners of over $175.00 is probably too much. Under $50 is probably too little. INTERMEDIATE Resist the urge to buy a $1,000.00 stick believing it will dramatically improve your game. If you want a better quality stick, consider something in the $300.00 range. Just make sure you really like the feel of it. Try some shots with heavy spin and feel the tell-tale vibrations. Do not upgrade to a stick that will require drastic changes in your stroke, unless you want to change your stroke. ADVANCED Get whatever damn thing you want. You deserve it. CUSTOM CUES I would love to start a collection of expensive custom cues. Many are magnificent works of art. But, if I could afford one I wouldn't use it for shooting. Works of art should be displayed and preserved. You won't see many pro players using a $5,000.00 custom cue stick in competition. ME I currently shoot a lot with a $50.00, two piece Dufferin (Sneaky Pete). It has no designs or wrap on the butt. It does have a wood to wood joint that allows me to feel every subtle vibration. I put harder leather on it. I have loaned it to others (I know, I know) who fall in love with it, even though they have more expensive cues. I am not pushing Dufferin. I just happen to believe it is one of the finest sticks on the market for the money. I did get two Dufferins that gave me trouble, however. The shafts were not seasoned completely, and sap came to the surface. The merchant replaced them with no debate. This can happen with any stick, so it did not scare me away from Dufferin. I am considering the purchase of a Predator shaft for an Adam stick already own, although I would worry about the sections coming apart over time, especially if racks are broken with it. QUOTING GEORGE FELS George Fels, in the April issue of Billiards Digest Magazine, covered the issue of cue stick shafts and tips: "Only the first 10 inches or so of a cue have any real effect on how the cue ball is struck, yet virtually all of the money we pay is for the other four feet." Mr. Fels also pointed out that many high end custom cues are not made to be used: " ...we have recently witnessed an art show in Los Angeles in which cues were offered for sale at prices ranging up to a high living $55,000.00. Without having seen that wand, or knowing its creator or specs, I will venture that more concentration and effort have gone into its design than its tip. Yet, without appropriate regard for that weenie appendage - let's assume the worst and say it cost $25.00 - the other $54,975.00 spent for the rest of the cue would be utterly down the tubes, if the object d' art was indeed ever intended to hit a ball." Right on Mr. Fels. But, I know you would love to own that $55,000.00 wand as much as I would. In truth, like everything else in life, we use what we can afford. If I owned a Rolls Royce, I would keep it under wraps, and probably under guard. There are those who routinely drive them to the grocery store. If I could justify and afford the cost, I would most definitely shoot with a $2,000.00 stick. I have very strong convictions about the above cue stick issues, but I will always want pretty new sticks that I hope will improve my game. They never have, but serious practice and regular competition have done wonders.

Physics of Pool

2006-03-08T06:53:00.000-08:00

If it was possible to talk the balls into the pocket, I would be seeded number one on the pro billiard tour. Unfortunately, talk is cheap, and nothing worth pursuing can be acquired cheaply. "Shut up and shoot" is an admonition, that should be carved in stone above every billiard parlor entrance.

I am personally guilty of describing, in nauseating detail, every pivotal shot I miss, to anyone who can fog a mirror, and is lonely enough to fake interest. A glassy-eyed nod is good enough for me. I'll describe, with remarkable recall, every nuance of a shot, to a drunken goat herder. The fact that my victim speaks no english and is too drunk to lick his lips is irrelevant. In recompense, I try to be patient when the situation is reversed. I will nod interest in someone else's pool crimes, at least until I fall out of my chair. None of this has anything to do with the topic. However, as a lighthearted introduction to the heavy stuff, it might have a redeeming quality.

The topic here is pool and physics; or more accurately, pool is physics. No other game on earth is so vulnerable to the natural laws of physics, with the possible exception of sex. (Every story should have sex in it. That was my contribution.)

Pool is physics transcribed for poets and artists. At its best, it is Swan Lake. The player is the conductor, the cue stick his baton, and the balls are dancers on a stage of green felt. When the game is played skillfully, one is mindful of the harmony that exists between man and nature. When I shoot, one is mindful of famine, pestilence and (pay attention here) chaos. But, why not. The likelihood that I will fall victim to chaos is law, not luck.

It is a fact that, unless intelligently influenced otherwise, it is the nature of all things to fall into chaos. (I can't intelligently influence my thumb.) It is one of the laws of physics, and seems paradoxical. One would think that order, being the most effective way to assure success, should be nature's way. But it ain't so. It is nature's scheme to create problems that will force living things to think. Ultimate survival depends on the power of the mind; not swiftness of foot, sharpness of tooth or keenness of eye. If we don't have problems to solve, we create them. That explains why games are such a critical part of our lives. They provide us with brain food. Without problems to solve, man would regress to a stone age mentality. I'm halfway there now. I shoot pool like a Neanderthal with a brain tumor.

If you can believe that a tendency toward disorder is a law of physics, consider its implications to the game of pool. Have you ever noticed how difficult it is to run a rack of 8 ball? With each shot we appear to be "organizing" a victorious end. Yet, for some reason, the last few shots become increasingly difficult, and we often find ourselves in a "Murphy's Law" position on the money ball. It is not bad luck. It is law! Add to this, the brain's tendency to disorganize under stress, and the chaos is exacerbated. In order to play smart pool, we have to violate at least one natural law by applying others that are more easily controlled. (Stay with me. I might need help.)

Learning to overcome chaos is the unconscious goal of every pool player. Professional pool players, even if they don't know it, owe their success to this fact. They have learned, for example, that the easiest shot may not be the smartest shot. By removing the easiest balls from the table too early, we dutifully fall victim to chaos later. This does not mean we should take tough shots if missing is probable. It means we should manage the table in an effort to take advantage of our opponents mismanagement. When advised to "Manage the table", you are being wisely instructed to overcome chaos, as it affects your strategy, and to put your opponent into chaos, as it affects his or hers. Obvious, you say? Get a grip! If it were so obvious, table management would not be so underutilized.

So, how do we overcome the chaotic conditions that lead to defeat? First, don't think too much. Too much thinking is a sin, and it hurts between the eyes. Thinking a little bit is okay, if nobody knows you're doing it. Remember that chaos feeds on too much thinking, especially when attempted by pool players. Focus on the object ball. Slowly fine tune your aim. If there is any brain matter left consider, without thinking too much, where the cue ball is likely to end up. Unless you're an advanced player, be satisfied with a safe, general area, not a specific spot. Leave yourself an option. Don't try position that could leave you snookered and your opponent open. Above all, make all of these decisions, and those regarding speed and deflection, before you bend over to shoot. This will allow you to concentrate on the object ball. You will get better at this with experience, and maybe a few beers. O.K. I lied about the beer. Like driving, drinking and pool don't mix. As a matter of fact, neither does driving and shooting pool. (I've heard that alcohol and gasoline do mix. But it tastes terrible.)

There are other less daunting laws of nature (other than chaos) that should be appreciated, if not completely understood. Gravity, motion, velocity, friction, mass, deflection and others affect how pool balls respond to our efforts to control them. It isn't necessary to be a physicist to have a general knowledge of the nature of things. It does require faith. If we do the same thing every time, the same end will result (assuming the table is level and in good condition). If for example, you shoot the cue ball from the head string spot across the foot spot to the end rail using no spin or english, the ball will rebound directly back toward the tip of your stick. Not might. It will. It is the law. If you are cutting an object ball into a pocket, and the cue ball makes contact with no forward, reverse or side spin, it will deflect from the object ball at a 90 degree angle to the line between the object ball and the pocket. Not might. It will. It's the law.

Trick shooters use the laws of physics to the extreme. They simply set up shots that allow physics to function as free of human interference as possible. They know that if they do the same thing every time, the same results can be expected. In fact, trick shooters develop shots by backing into them. They watch the action of a ball when it is shot in a certain way, and invent a trick shot based on that action. The complexity of the shot is built, layer by layer, from back to front. Tournament players seldom see the exact same shot twice in their life. To a tournament player, physics is the foundation of their shooting skills. To the trick shooter, physics is the skill. Whoa! don't get me wrong! Many trick shooters are world champion players who started trick shooting simply to entertain. Massey and Rempe are examples. Both are world class pool players...period.

Back to the business of physics in pool.

Because the weight and mass of the cue ball and object ball are the same, when the cue ball "slides" into the object ball at no angle (0 degrees) and with no top, bottom or side spin, the cue ball will stop dead, regardless of velocity. Not might. It will. It is the law. 100% of the energy (weight, mass & velocity) of the cue ball is surrendered to the object ball, and there is no energy remaining to carry the cue ball further in any direction. The use of english and spin changes the result, but nonetheless, by the use of physics.

The friction of the cloth will put forward (never backward) roll on the balls. The leather cue tip is used to increase friction with the cue ball, which in turn provides control over the friction of the cloth. This is physics. Believe it. Trust it. Use it.

Many players feel using top or no english provides better control. Why? Because top spin works with the natural friction of the cloth and not against it. Advanced players know how to use conflicting forces (laws of physics) to move the cue ball in magical ways. A novice should work with the laws, at least until they have learned to understand, or at least trust them. Faith in the physics of the game will allow you to concentrate more on improving the human factor.

I will write more about the physics of pool later. My purpose here is to influence players to trust the laws, even if they don't fully understand them. Faith is important in any game. Confidence is nothing more than faith in your technical and mental control of the game. If faith can move mountains, pool is a piece of cake.

Billiard Art Work

2006-03-01T13:39:00.000-08:00

I was browsing around the internet and found this site called Barbs Billiards Art, the site has some amazing Billiard art using computer technology for this kind of techno/modern billiard art. My favorite is the "Gun Shot" on the top left of this post.

Site: Barb's Billiards Art

Billiards Muscles... Leave them at Home

2006-02-23T08:00:00.000-08:00

You've seen them, the muscle-bound creatures who hang around the local gym flexing, curling and as rigid as man can make himself.

All that training and exercise is absolutely useless at the pool table.
Often, the 90-pound weakling can deliver a more pure stroke and is likely to have a much better break than the guy who kicked sand in his face.

Why? A loose muscle is a fast muscle.

When it comes to a massive break, scattering balls all over the north 40 and leaving the cue ball center table, I'll take speed with accuracy anytime over all the muscle that can be put behind a cue.

The speed of the cue through the center of the cue ball is what accounts for a good, ball scattering break shot.

Instead of weight lifting, concentrate your effort on drills that will speed up delivery of the cue.

Imagine for instance, instead of the greatest pool legend in the country, you are the country bumpkin who can deliver the fastest underarm, softball pitch.

You've been brought onto the city team because you have a fast arm. What caused it anyway?

Arm Whip--Here is where most pitchers improve their pitching speed...and it is also most often not mentioned. You can achieve a faster fastball by speeding up the arm speed during the final downswing before the release. This intentional “whipping” of the arm through the final one-third of the rotation will create a faster closing of the shoulder while the arm is still in its downward movement, creating a faster movement of the arm (and subsequently the ball) just before the release point, resulting in a much faster pitch.

How about applying that technique to a break shot.--You can achieve greater cue speed by speeding up the arm during the final downswing. We don't want you to put your forearm through the rail, but that kind of speed can really help your break shot.

Try this little drill. Place a yardstick on the long rail with the one-inch end over the center of the corner pocket. Set up a straight shot (cue ball alone) at the opposite end rail from the headstring. Set the cue ball on the headstring and see just how fast you are. The cue ball should hit the end rail, rebound to your side, hit the end rail again and come back you your end a second time. If you can muster up enough speed to get to the end rail again, set up the yardstick at that end of the table.

You are trying to determine how many inches out from the final rebound you can move the cue ball. This is the distance you want to record. Make 10 shots every day, record the highest distance. Track this for a couple of weeks.

Besides speed, you will learn accuracy counts greatly in hitting the center of the cue ball and keeping your stroke straight. Miss the straight return line and your cue ball will likely hit the side rail before it gets back to the end rail.

But The Break Isn't Everything...

Here are three things to remember:

· A tight grip limits cue speed.

· Let the weight of the cue do the work, not your muscles.

· Keep your stroke smooth, you'll gain better control, more power with less effort.

During most shots, your lower arm and wrist just hang limp from your upper arm. This means your arm and wrist hold the cue in no position if it is hanging limp. There is no muscle involved. Limp is limp.

This will allow the cue to go straight, if you add muscle, all that changes, and it is known as steering the cue. Most all of the time this is caused by a tight grip and using the wrong muscles.

Watch yourself in a mirror when the weight swings freely your wrist of your cue hand cocks back. The wrist always catches up at impact, if it's not forced. This means keep the wrist vertical (flat and straight) (naturally hanging) at impact.

That is what you're looking for. You can keep a more firm wrist, which is fine, just let the cue hang freely. Timing is near the same but it all varies a little. You need to learn to to feel the weight of your cue, after all the game is based on feel.

Pool Is Not Violent Motions. That kills a good stroke and more important, accuracy. It will become very accurate and powerful if you let it happen, rather than force a motion.

Simple Aiming Technique

2006-02-23T07:53:00.000-08:00

Here's a technique for aiming that I've come up with. It's pretty simple. Consider the fact that a common billiard ball is 2 1/4 inches in diameter. That means that when the cue ball contacts the object ball, there is 2 1/4 inches from the center of one ball to the center of the other (that is, provided the cue ball is not larger than the other balls, as is sometimes the case on many bar tables, but I'm approximating here). Once you have determined the line of aim, simply shoot for a point along the line of aim that is about 1 inch behind the object ball.

There is no substitute for practice of course. That is the best way to develop a good eye for shooting. But if you are having trouble with your aim, it's a good method of double checking. And it can be very useful on snooker tables, where aim can be made even more difficult by the larger size of the table and the smaller size of the balls.

8 Ball - The Game, The Rules

2006-02-21T12:47:00.000-08:00

OBJECT OF THE GAME

Eight-Ball is a call shot game played with a cue ball and 15 object balls, numbered 1 through 15. One player must pocket balls of the group numbered 1 through 7 (solid colors), while the other player has 9 through 15 (stripes). The player pocketing either group first, and then legally pocketing the 8-ball wins the game.

CALL SHOT

In Call Shot, obvious balls and pockets do not have to be indicated. It is the opponent’s right to ask which ball and pocket if he is unsure of the shot. Bank shots and combination shots are not considered obvious, and care should be taken in calling both the object ball and the intended pocket. When calling the shot, it is never necessary to indicate details such as the number of cushions, banks, kisses, caroms, etc. Any balls pocketed on a foul remain pocketed, regardless of whether they belong to the shooter or the opponent. The opening break is not a “called shot.” Any player performing a break shot in 8-Ball may continue to shoot so long as any object ball is legally pocketed on the break.

RACKING THE BALLS

See graphic beside.
The balls are racked in a triangle at the foot of the table with the 8-ball in the center of the triangle, the first ball of the rack on the foot spot, a stripe ball in one corner of the rack and a solid ball in the other corner.

ORDER OF BREAK

Winner of the lag has the option to break. The winner of each game breaks in the next. The following are common options that may be designated by tournament officials in advance:

(a) Players alternate break.
(b) Loser breaks.
(c) Player trailing in game count breaks the next game.

LEGAL BREAK SHOT

(Defined) To execute a legal break, the breaker (with the cue ball behind the head string) must either (1) pocket a ball, or (2) drive at least four numbered balls to the rail. When the breaker fails to make a legal break, it is a foul, and the incoming player has the option of (1) accepting the table in position and shooting, or (2) having the balls re-racked and having the option of shooting the opening break or allowing the offending player to re-break.

SCRATCH ON A LEGAL BREAK

If a player scratches on a legal break shot, (1) all balls pocketed remain pocketed (exception, the 8-ball: see rule 4.8), (2) it is a foul, (3) the table is open. Please Note: The incoming player has cue ball in hand behind the head string and may not shoot an object ball that is behind the head string, unless he first shoots the cue ball past the head string and causes the cue ball to come back behind the head string and hit the object ball.

OBJECT BALLS JUMPED OFF TABLE ON THE BREAK

If a player jumps an object ball off the table on the break shot, it is a foul and the incoming player has the option of (1) accepting the table in position and shooting, or (2) taking cue ball in hand behind the head string and shooting.

8-BALL POCKETED ON THE BREAK

If the 8-ball is pocketed on the break, breaker may ask for a re-rack or have the 8-ball spotted and continue shooting. If the breaker scratches while pocketing the 8-ball on the break, the incoming player has the option of a re-rack or having the 8-ball spotted and begin shooting with ball in hand behind the head string.

OPEN TABLE

(Defined) The table is "open" when the choice of groups (stripes or solids) has not yet been determined. When the table is open, it is legal to hit a solid first to make a stripe or vice-versa. Note: The table is always open immediately after the break shot. When the table is open, it is legal to hit any solid or stripe first in the process of pocketing the called stripe or solid. However, when the table is open and the 8-ball is the first ball contacted, it is a foul and no stripe or solid may be scored in favor of the shooter. The shooter loses his turn; the incoming player is awarded cue ball in hand; any balls pocketed remain pocketed; and the incoming player addresses the balls with the table still open. On an open table, all illegally pocketed balls remain pocketed.

CHOICE OF GROUP

The choice of stripes or solids is not determined on the break even if balls are made from only one or both groups, because the table is always open immediately after the break shot. The choice of group is determined only when a player legally pockets a called object ball after the break shot.

LEGAL SHOT

(Defined) On all shots (except on the break and when the table is open), the shooter must hit one of his group of balls first and (1) pocket a numbered ball, or (2) cause the cue ball or any numbered ball to contact a rail. Please Note: It is permissible for the shooter to bank the cue ball off a rail before contacting the object ball; however, after contact with the object ball, an object ball must be pocketed, or the cue ball or any numbered ball must contact a rail. Failure to meet these requirements is a foul.

“SAFETY” SHOT

For tactical reasons, a player may choose to pocket an obvious object ball and also discontinue a turn at the table by declaring “safety” in advance. A safety shot is defined as a legal shot. If the shooting player intends to play safe by pocketing an obvious object ball, then prior to the shot, the shooter must declare a “safety” to the opponent. It is the shooter’s responsibility to make the opponent aware of the intended safety shot. If this is not done, and one of the shooter’s object balls is pocketed, the shooter will be required to shoot again. Any ball pocketed on a safety shot remains pocketed.

SCORING

A player is entitled to continue shooting until failing to legally pocket a ball of his group. After a player has legally pocketed all of his group of balls, he shoots to pocket the 8-ball.

FOUL PENALTY

Opposing player gets cue ball in hand. This means that the player can place the cue ball anywhere on the table (does not have to be behind the headstring except on opening break). This rule prevents a player from making intentional fouls which would put an opponent at a disadvantage. With “cue ball in hand,” the player may use a hand or any part of a cue (including the tip) to position the cue ball. When placing the cue ball in position, any forward stroke motion contacting the cue ball will be a foul, if not a legal shot. (Also see Rule 3.39.)

COMBINATION SHOTS

Combination shots are allowed; however, the 8-ball can’t be used as a first ball in the combination unless it is the shooter’s only remaining legal object ball on the table. Otherwise, should such contact occur on the 8-ball, it is a foul.

ILLEGALLY POCKETED BALLS

An object ball is considered to be illegally pocketed when (1) that object ball is pocketed on the same shot a foul is committed, or (2) the called ball did not go in the designated pocket, or (3) a safety is called prior to the shot. Illegally pocketed balls remain pocketed and are scored in favor of the shooter controlling that specific group of balls, solids or stripes.

OBJECT BALLS JUMPED OFF THE TABLE

If any object ball is jumped off the table, it is a foul and loss of turn, unless it is the 8-ball, which is a loss of game. Any jumped object balls are not re-spotted.

JUMP AND MASSÉ SHOT FOUL

While “cue ball fouls only” is the rule of play when a match is not presided over by a referee, a player should be aware that it will be considered a cue ball foul if during an attempt to jump, curve or massé the cue ball over or around an impeding numbered ball that is not a legal object ball, the impeding ball moves (regardless of whether it was moved by a hand, cue stick follow-through or bridge).

PLAYING THE 8-BALL

When the 8-ball is the legal object ball, a scratch or foul is not loss of game if the 8-ball is not pocketed or jumped from the table. Incoming player has cue ball in hand. Note: A combination shot can never be used to legally pocket the 8-ball, except when the 8-ball is the first ball contacted in the shot sequence.

LOSS OF GAME

A player loses the game by committing any of the following infractions:
1. Fouls when pocketing the 8-ball (exception: see 8-Ball Pocketed On The Break).
2. Pockets the 8-ball on the same stroke as the last of his group of balls.
3. Jumps the 8-ball off the table at any time.
4. Pockets the 8-ball in a pocket other than the one designated.
5. Pockets the 8-ball when it is not the legal object ball.

Note: All infractions must be called before another shot is taken, or else it will be deemed that no infraction occurred.

STALEMATED GAME

If, after 3 consecutive turns at the table by each player (6 turns total), the referee judges that attempting to pocket or move an object ball will result in loss of game, the balls will be re-racked with the original breaker of the stalemated game breaking again. The stalemate rule may be applied regard-less of the number of balls on the table. Please Note: Three consecutive fouls by one player in 8-ball is not a loss of game.

Billiard Stratagies: How to Easily Make a Bank Shot

2006-02-21T12:41:00.000-08:00

"At billiard, for controling bank shot, you must visualize trajectory of object ball; gage strenght of shot (avoid lateral effect) and choose perfect cut shot. "

I'm always looking for a way to improve my game, and I found this great site on billiards that has an article on Bank Shots, with great pictures, take a look!

Article: Bank Shots
Article 2: Easy Bank Shots

Pool Table Moving

2006-02-14T07:22:00.001-08:00

Depending on the manufacture and style of the pool table, can be difficult or damage the table, if attempted by the homeowner. To properly move a pool table, it should be disassembled, moved, assembled and re-leveled.

When a pool table is installed it is made level to earth and each piece of slate is registered to its mate. If a pool table is moved without realignment, it will loose accurate playability and in some cases it will be damaged. The pool table is designed to support its weight and be stationary. Therefore only an experienced pool table technician should move and realign the table.

A great resource for pool table moving tools is at Happ, there you can find great tools to make moving your table easier. However, if your going to be doing a big move, say to a new home, it is highly recommended you find a Pool Table Moving company, compare, check prices and choose. Let the pros do thier job :)

Download Free Billiard Game!

2006-02-07T08:55:00.000-08:00

I just can't get enough on billiards! On the weekends I get together with my buddies and a pack of cold beer and start shootin some pool. Then Monday comes and its back to the office... Zzzzz... So for all of you that work on a computer all day like I do, I want to share with you this awsome game I found online that you can download and its FREE! Best of all this pool game / Billiard game is so realistic! Its a trial version, but the download comes with the crack, any problems just ask :)

Download: Free Billiard Game

Refelting Your Pool Table

2006-02-02T10:51:00.000-08:00

Can you do it yourself? What does it take to refelt a pool table?

Until recently the world of pool retained it secrets and had been a mystery. Those who were good players or table mechanics kept their knowledge to themselves to protect their livelihood. The Information Technology era has made it profitable for players and table mechanics to share their knowledge and allow the average person to benefit from their knowledge.

So what should you look for if you want to save some money and undertake the task of recovering your own pool table? There are three factors that are going to make the task much easier and raise you level of success mainly:-

The quality of materials being used
The correct set of tools.
Lastly is a good set of instructions.

So how do I know if I am getting good materials? Locally this is much easier than on the Internet, but even there, there are ways to identify a reputable dealer for your purchases. Here are a few things to consider.

First if the price seems low there will always be a reason. It may be old cloth, materials from odd lots or even overseas material that will not have quality controls found in the US. If you find a website that looks good and the prices seem reasonable. If they provide a contact method send them an email and ask a technical or service question. See what kind of response you get and how responsive they are. This will give you an idea how responsive they will be if you have a problem later when something goes wrong or you have another question.

Cloth manufacturers are pretty consistent in the prices they sell to wholesalers so if you find someone selling way below the average price beware! Finding good instructions may also take a little searching. Many sites taunt instructions but many turn out to be little more than a few penciled pictures and less than a page of how to cover the bed. What I recommend is detailed step by step instructions with actual pictures. Good instruction will almost assure success, but if you have additional questions look for a site that will provide email or phone support they are out there.

What about tools? Well most of what you need is readily available in the average home but there are some specialty tools that can make the job much easier:- Staple pullers, feather strip removers, specialty razors and pounding blocks. These sound simple but having them can make a job go so much smoother and reduce some mistakes that can happen when using an incorrect tool. Look for a recovering kit that contains these types of tools and your job just got easier.

I hope this helps in your search for those of you thinking of refelting your own billiard tables.

Murrey OUTDOOR 5000

2006-02-02T10:05:00.000-08:00

The Murrey OUTDOOR 5000 table is incredible! This outdoor billiard features a heavy-duty main frame with criss-cross interlock for maximum stability. Genuine 3/4" thick one piece slate playfield diamond ground to a perfect level of within 1/10,000 inch. Also, Murrey Guarantees to stay level indoors or outdoors. The pool table also has a professional grade K-66 profile cushions, water resistant/mildew resistant Sunbrella® outdoor 100% acrylic fiber billiard fabric. Built in rail sights for bank shots. Adjustable leg levelers make it easy to level on any surface. Professional quality molded pockets. Sun powered solar panels re-charge night lights. And last but not least, the Murrey outdoor 500 has a Built -in storage area for accessories on the side of the pool table. This pool table is fantastic, and is a piece I hope to acquire in the future.

Pool Madness

2006-02-01T07:02:00.000-08:00

I love to play pool, it is my favorite hobby and I love everything about it. This blog will talk about everything from pool stratagies to pool table reviews. Here you will be able to find information on things such as: pool table, billiard tables, cues, pool balls, billiard accesories, pool accesories, used pool tables, repair pool/billiard tables, pool stratagies, billiard games and more! Enjoy and feel free to coment or ask questions!